2004 Summer Trip To Cabo

Cabo 2004 Sept 10-14

As most trips go, this one started off as a dream a few years ago. Then, by the grace of God, friends, jobs, and love, it happened! I always have loved Mexico. It’s diversity is incredible. The weather is ideal in many places. People are friendly. Cabo is a tourist town. This means it’s very expensive, at least compared to other ports. The entire local economy is tourism-based. I had never even heard of Cabo before the Van Halen song made it famous to mainstream America. So, I always wanted to go to this part of Mexico, and friends Ron and Eileen offered to share a room in their two bedroom timeshare that they traded into there for a week. They have been a special couple to me since Peggy and I split. They took to Severine very quickly, and have loved her and accepted her from the first meeting. They are generous to their friends, and often like to share time on vacation with other couples. I booked using frequent flyer miles to get us there. It is low season in Los Cabos in September. And, as one would expect there is a hurricane off the west coast of Mexico currently heading that way now as I write this a few weeks later. But we took the limited risk and went. Cabo is for golfing, fishing, partying, and total getaways. We went for the getaway. Golf and fishing require too much time and money. Partying is not safe for the body or the soul, especially in Mexico. I do party a little, but prefer to do it only among people I know.

We left at 9 AM on Friday, September 4. We were supposed to have an evening flight, but American was not fond of it and it eliminated it along with another day of vacation for both of us! We were a little later than I would’ve preferred at the airport. That makes me bitchy, and the fact that the St. Louis airport had no decent coffee in C terminal did not help at all! I have been less and less enamored about living in St. Louis over time and the airport situation was starting to seal the deal for me. I know I will move at some point. It’s time for me to grow, And a new place will make you learn and do just that. Arrival in Cabo was on time and well nourished. We enjoyed sandwiches from Au Bon Pain, as meals on flights in the coach cabin or not common these days, even on international flights. Transfers to the Hilton were in Gray Line vans. Very easy. As usual when arriving in Mexico, you have to run the gauntlet of promotional people and timeshare tricksters on the way out of the airport. The best thing you can do is pre-arrange your travel plans and know what you’re doing when you land. As soon as you clear customs just get the hell outside of the terminal and everything is good. 

The Hilton was a marvelous place. The property was only two years old at the time. Facing a beach about halfway between San Jose Del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas at the 20 km marker, it was laid out in a U-shape. The pool was breathtaking. It was an infinity pool and was the first I’ve ever experienced of its kind. The beach was pretty... Cabo sand is coarse, but still OK. And coarse sand always cleans off easier. The surf looked mean, thanks to a short shallow shelf and then a steep drop off. The waves would break hard and then sweep backwards into the ocean very quickly. But the bark was worse than the bite. You had to get the hang of getting in and out of the water safely, but once in it was pretty nice. We were told that the water temperature in the Sea of Cortez was almost 85°F! We had tacos and beer at the pool after our check in and complementary margaritas as a Hilton Honors member. A little time on the beach and we were off to town on the bus. A bus ride from our hotel was one dollar versus $25 in a taxi. An easy choice! Taxis are actually very expensive in Cabo compared other areas of Mexico. We ate at El Paiso Taqueria, But we actually meant to go to Los Paisos just down the street! It didn’t matter, it was still good. We split five tacos and a beer for a total of $13 after tip. We took a bus up to the Soriano store for groceries before we ate. It was a nice store. There is also a CCC, Sams Club, and Costco in Cabo. In short, you can really save some money if you have a kitchen and are willing to make a couple of bus trips into the stores for provisions. Round-trip taxi could cost you $50, so that’s not worth it. But if you grab a bag at a time and use the bus, it’s more than worth it. After dinner we had no luck looking for ice cream. So we bused back to the Hilton. 

The next morning we got up at 7 AM intending to run 10 miles. 85° and humidity and exhaust fumes along the tourist Corredor took care of that notion! We ran about 5 1/2 miles and then finished working out in the hotel fitness club. After a nice shower we ate eggs with chipotle hollandaise sauce and pastries overlooking the ocean. It was so hot on Saturday I can’t even describe it. We finished our time at the Hilton with a dip in the pool and lounging in the chairs. At about 3 PM we needed to leave for the town of Cabo.

We had packed light and took our luggage on the bus. That became an issue when about 70 Mexicans got on the 45 person bus! Shift workers were leaving their jobs and taking the bus back into town. We could not see out of the bus to know where our stop was. It was a zoo! We finally were able to see where we were and noted our stop. We had to shout at the bus driver in Spanish “Alto Aqui!” The little bells that you ring for them to stop at the next available stand were not working. Then we had to shove our way through about 25 Mexican grounds keepers and construction workers that had filled the aisle-way. It was wild! We then walked about a mile in the 100° heat up a very long private road with our backpacks and carry-ons. Very hot! No sooner did we walk into the Villa Del Palmar than the Ron and Eileen pulled up in a shuttle! We were soon checked into a nice two room suite and on the beach for a quick look around. We went to La Dolce for what I would consider as okay Italian food. We had a coffee at Cabo Roasting. Then we bused to Soriano again for supplies. It was evening by this time and an adventure for Ron and Eileen. They were real troopers as tired as they were. We did it the night before so we knew the lay of the land. They, however, were very concerned when people boarded the bus and had live chickens tucked under their arms with them. Back at the Villa, we had a celebratory drink and slept in well the next morning.

Sunday was purely a beach day. I started us off by preparing some fresh papaya and mango that we had bought the night before. Severine and Eileen had picked out pastries, and of course there was coffee. The beach was fun and we enjoyed many laughs, dips in the water, crashing waves, and an endless stream of vendors trying to sell us all kinds of crafts. Sunday evening we had decided on Mi Casa for dinner. It was a good choice. I had a red snapper Tikin Xic (with achiote paste steamed in banana leaf... Yucatán style). I shared it with Severine who did not care for her first ceviche, so I ate it. Ron and Eileen had tamales plates which we sampled a little bit from. They were also very good. We again searched for ice cream without success before the taxi ride back to the condo.

A couple of things I have left out. First we almost stayed in Dallas Fort Worth for an offer of $500 each, business class seats on the next flight out, and free lodging and meals! They were asking for volunteers to be bumped but ended up not needing us to volunteer right as we walked up to the counter. Damn! Second, we watched a hilarious Tim Robbins flick called Human Nature about a dysfunctional scientist and ape people the first night at the condo. It was silly and we laughed a lot. 

Monday started with the time share orientation presentation and a breakfast. Although I do not in anyway endorse timeshares, I will reveal that I bought a week at this presentation (I eventually GAVE it away. NEVER EVER EVER buy a timeshare. NEVER!). I will also tell you it is the worst financial decision you could possibly make. Never ever ever ever fall for one of these timeshares. It’s a financial nightmare and you can’t sell them. You have to pay companies to get you out of them. Trading to a different location is a hassle. The maintenance fees go up regularly every few years. And if you do trade out to go different places through one of the organizations like RCI or Interval, the fees are extremely high. Just don’t. Ever!

Anyway, a little beach time after I gave them $14,000 and a mile walk later in the scorching sun down the beach we did a glass bottom boat ride to Lands End. This is the famous rock arch you see in all the pictures where the Pacific ocean and Sea of Cortez meet. Now, these boat rides are supposed to be calm and relaxing. However, high seas and a stalling outboard motor on our particular boat had us close to death and crashing against the rocks several times. The arch was beautiful, and I took some stunning pictures as I simultaneously shit my pants because of our predicament! We actually decided to get off the boat at the marina at the last minute instead of taking it on up the beach and back towards our condo. We walked to Cabo Wabo Cantina for some margaritas and tacos. We later struck out on our search for ice cream for a third time! Back at the condo that evening we had some snacks and yogurt before going to the fiesta night at the condo main stage. Once there, the tequila and food were plentiful and the entertainment was very well done. Sleep and hangovers were easy to come by that evening!

Spending $14,000 got us a free breakfast with the timeshare sales person on Tuesday morning followed by 30 minutes massages each. The most expensive massages ever! We packed quickly that morning and sat at the pool until it was time to go. We settled up with our portion of fees for the four days with Ron and Eileen. I think he was a little emotional as we left in our shuttle. We had an excellent driver who was very smooth and very fast.

As I finish with some final thoughts on our flight to DFW, I’m still thinking of the great time that we had on this trip. The Ron and Eileen were not as adventurous as us but very fun people. We are often transformed by love and experiences together. I come back from Cabo with a lot less money, but a little bit richer soul. And I have gratitude for the grace of friends. Wading through the mysterious waters of life and love while traveling can be difficult, but you have to stick to it and be patient.