2005 Winter Trip to Cancun

Sunday, May 22, 2005 was the start of a well-deserved vacation beginning with a day-drive that turned in to night on the Eastern shore of Virginia and Maryland. We ended up in Annapolis. It rained on and off the entire drive, and the signs near Salisbury were confusing as hell. The Holiday Inn Express made us smarter. Ha ha. And we slept in the next morning before touring a little bit of Annapolis. We visited the old capital, the city dock, and walked around. We had a nice lunch at Griffin’s down at the dock area. Having two of us to do the work/navigation, we made an easy drive into BWI for our flight and parked in the A lot for long-term parking. We flew through Miami to change planes for Cancun. In Miami, incorrect info had us walking from one end of the airport to the other... about 2 miles in  total. Actually, we needed the exercise and we weren’t late… so it was all good. We got to the newly finished terminal in Cancun and there was a huge back up at immigration. 45 minutes later we cleared customs and shuttled to our hotel which was actually pretty close. The Royal Islander is part of a multiple of time share/hotel properties in the area. Unlike some timeshare locations they actually made non-member check-in easy. We bought some cheese and meat at the shop across the street and snacked with some beer in our room.

The next morning we attended a very well presented welcome orientation in a meeting room to start the day. After that we just did some beach time in the 90° weather and sweat out some of our work toxins.
May 27, 2005 finds me sitting on the beach again. Six days into a nice vacation! We went to the center city of Cancun on Sunday. Then we went by bus to Playa Del Carmen for $3.20 each way per person on Monday. We visited Tulum and Bahia Soliman by rental on Tuesday. We hung out locally near our hotel on Wednesday. And then we visited Chitchen Itza ruins and the interior town of Valladolid by rental on Thursday. Back at the resort on Friday, I suppose it is time to reflect on a few details.

Sunday in the center of Cancun we ate brunch at La Parilla. It was incredible, with everything from ceviche to eight different types of mole sauces. Downtown was deserted except for this busy place. We also stopped at 100% Natural for juice and whole wheat pastries. My kind of place.

Monday we took the first class ADO bus to Playa Del Carmen. Incredibly cheap! Once there we walked the entire northern part of the main commercial street, Calle 5, and over to the beach. We swam and walked back into town to the south. We found another 100% Natural... with a great tropical ambience this time. We had two huge smoothies there. We bargained a very disappointed vendor down in price on a couple of belts. Then we actually had some solid food, beef and suckling pork tacos at a true local dive a few blocks off of the main area. We grabbed some beer at a general store and some bread at a panaderia before catching the bus back to Cancun.

On Tuesday our trip to Tulum started with an easy car rental, at least by Mexican standards. We went directly to the ruins. It’s paradise every day there. It would have been the place to live if you were Mayan. Then we drove up to Bahia Soliman to eat at Oscar y Lalos on the beach. It’s back a gravel road off the main highway. The restaurant is really the only thing on the bay except for a company that leads mini adventure tours on quad runners. Their coming and going was the only noise we heard besides the breeze through the palm trees. We made friends with a dog named Balloo and kayaked in the bay. 
(2018- I’m adding an edit to this, because sadly things have changed in this area. A couple of years after this visit a hurricane wiped out the restaurant here. It also wiped out the little adventure touring business. The restaurant relocated out onto the highway. The food is probably still fine, but the beach ambience is gone and access for kayaking and swimming on that little bay is no longer an option. It’s a shame because that area is really a true paradise. Because the Mexican authorities have limited further development along the coast, at least that that will not be exploited any time soon. At least I hope not. To the south and around a small point is an almost equal sized bay that is lined with rental homes and small boutique hotels. It used to be cheap to stay there at the time of this trip, sadly that is no longer the case. It’s not out of reach but it’s some serious coin to stay there now. For my money, I would stay there if I really wanted to get away. You can just kayak around the point to the now deserted Bahia Soliman, and snorkel among the rocks and reef structures. There wouldn’t be another person around. You would also have the small beaches all to yourself.)

Wednesday was a quiet day of beach time, pool time, and finally dinner. Breakfast was courtesy of Hector at the Royal Sands. We went up there to tour that sister property and were comp’d our meal. We shopped in the afternoon where I bought an incredible Tissot T-touch watch for only $440 (usually $800+)! We decided to play tennis back at the resort in the evening. We had fun and were soaked with sweat within an hour. We ate later on at the JW Marriott property just north of us. They had an incredible restaurant there called Gustino at the time of our visit.

Thursday we rented a car to go to the ruins of Chichen Itza, the town of Vallodolid, and a cenote called Dzitnup. The ruins our big, bold, and hot hot hot! It’s a very formal layout there, and everything seems to be sculpted in relief. Very ornamental and elaborate. It’s a magnificent place.
(2018, as an edit now, the ruins are no longer magnificent, as they are so much more crowded than they used to be. There are hundreds upon hundreds of people there every hour now (thousands per day), and vendors lien all the once-deserted connecting trails and roads. It used to be that your visit was reflective and peaceful. That is no longer the case. It’s for that reason that I cannot recommend visiting here anymore. There are other ruins in Mexico that are much more authentic in terms of the experience) The cenote, as with almost all of them, was is mysterious, refreshing, and beautiful.

Some observations from this trip:

The worst things about Cancun are the relentless touristy things. It’s not real Mexico unless you visit the town center. It is like Las Vegas has been relocated to Mexico. College party goers and loud and obnoxious people are also very negative.

The best things about Cancun are the hotel properties that are top notch. The beach strand that is absolutely beautiful. Transportation on the bus system is extremely cheap and fun. And if you want to experience a more authentic Mexico you only need to go into the town center via bus and you can find true Mexico and a middle class Mexicans living their lives.

Other things that I’ve learned over time and many trips to Mexico:
Only rent a car if you absolutely have to. Use the bus systems to get from town to town, and around in town. They are cheap and easy to use. Also, don’t be afraid to try using collectivo vans to get from town to town that are located along a common highway.

Always have pesos and pay in pesos for the best deal. Or use a credit card and DECLINE THE CURRENCY TRANSFER OPTIONS TO PAY IN DOLLARS. Using dollars is for lazy American idiots.

If you are Staying in Cancun and have to arrange your own transportation to and from the airport, it’s best to take a pre-arranged shuttle to the property and make your arrival easy... unless you pack light and want to visit the center of town right away... In that case you can take the ADO bus. This is what I do. Interestingly, taxis are about half as expensive going back to the airport from your hotel property. So DO NOT BUY A ROUND TRIP SHUTTLE PASS… Since taxis can be arranged at a moment’s notice, you can maximize your vacation time the last day of your trip by taking a taxi back to the airport if that’s what you prefer.

A good guide book for the area is always a good idea. Read it before you go and make copies of the relevant pages leaving the heavy guide book at home if you can.

2004 Summer Trip To Cabo

Cabo 2004 Sept 10-14

As most trips go, this one started off as a dream a few years ago. Then, by the grace of God, friends, jobs, and love, it happened! I always have loved Mexico. It’s diversity is incredible. The weather is ideal in many places. People are friendly. Cabo is a tourist town. This means it’s very expensive, at least compared to other ports. The entire local economy is tourism-based. I had never even heard of Cabo before the Van Halen song made it famous to mainstream America. So, I always wanted to go to this part of Mexico, and friends Ron and Eileen offered to share a room in their two bedroom timeshare that they traded into there for a week. They have been a special couple to me since Peggy and I split. They took to Severine very quickly, and have loved her and accepted her from the first meeting. They are generous to their friends, and often like to share time on vacation with other couples. I booked using frequent flyer miles to get us there. It is low season in Los Cabos in September. And, as one would expect there is a hurricane off the west coast of Mexico currently heading that way now as I write this a few weeks later. But we took the limited risk and went. Cabo is for golfing, fishing, partying, and total getaways. We went for the getaway. Golf and fishing require too much time and money. Partying is not safe for the body or the soul, especially in Mexico. I do party a little, but prefer to do it only among people I know.

We left at 9 AM on Friday, September 4. We were supposed to have an evening flight, but American was not fond of it and it eliminated it along with another day of vacation for both of us! We were a little later than I would’ve preferred at the airport. That makes me bitchy, and the fact that the St. Louis airport had no decent coffee in C terminal did not help at all! I have been less and less enamored about living in St. Louis over time and the airport situation was starting to seal the deal for me. I know I will move at some point. It’s time for me to grow, And a new place will make you learn and do just that. Arrival in Cabo was on time and well nourished. We enjoyed sandwiches from Au Bon Pain, as meals on flights in the coach cabin or not common these days, even on international flights. Transfers to the Hilton were in Gray Line vans. Very easy. As usual when arriving in Mexico, you have to run the gauntlet of promotional people and timeshare tricksters on the way out of the airport. The best thing you can do is pre-arrange your travel plans and know what you’re doing when you land. As soon as you clear customs just get the hell outside of the terminal and everything is good. 

The Hilton was a marvelous place. The property was only two years old at the time. Facing a beach about halfway between San Jose Del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas at the 20 km marker, it was laid out in a U-shape. The pool was breathtaking. It was an infinity pool and was the first I’ve ever experienced of its kind. The beach was pretty... Cabo sand is coarse, but still OK. And coarse sand always cleans off easier. The surf looked mean, thanks to a short shallow shelf and then a steep drop off. The waves would break hard and then sweep backwards into the ocean very quickly. But the bark was worse than the bite. You had to get the hang of getting in and out of the water safely, but once in it was pretty nice. We were told that the water temperature in the Sea of Cortez was almost 85°F! We had tacos and beer at the pool after our check in and complementary margaritas as a Hilton Honors member. A little time on the beach and we were off to town on the bus. A bus ride from our hotel was one dollar versus $25 in a taxi. An easy choice! Taxis are actually very expensive in Cabo compared other areas of Mexico. We ate at El Paiso Taqueria, But we actually meant to go to Los Paisos just down the street! It didn’t matter, it was still good. We split five tacos and a beer for a total of $13 after tip. We took a bus up to the Soriano store for groceries before we ate. It was a nice store. There is also a CCC, Sams Club, and Costco in Cabo. In short, you can really save some money if you have a kitchen and are willing to make a couple of bus trips into the stores for provisions. Round-trip taxi could cost you $50, so that’s not worth it. But if you grab a bag at a time and use the bus, it’s more than worth it. After dinner we had no luck looking for ice cream. So we bused back to the Hilton. 

The next morning we got up at 7 AM intending to run 10 miles. 85° and humidity and exhaust fumes along the tourist Corredor took care of that notion! We ran about 5 1/2 miles and then finished working out in the hotel fitness club. After a nice shower we ate eggs with chipotle hollandaise sauce and pastries overlooking the ocean. It was so hot on Saturday I can’t even describe it. We finished our time at the Hilton with a dip in the pool and lounging in the chairs. At about 3 PM we needed to leave for the town of Cabo.

We had packed light and took our luggage on the bus. That became an issue when about 70 Mexicans got on the 45 person bus! Shift workers were leaving their jobs and taking the bus back into town. We could not see out of the bus to know where our stop was. It was a zoo! We finally were able to see where we were and noted our stop. We had to shout at the bus driver in Spanish “Alto Aqui!” The little bells that you ring for them to stop at the next available stand were not working. Then we had to shove our way through about 25 Mexican grounds keepers and construction workers that had filled the aisle-way. It was wild! We then walked about a mile in the 100° heat up a very long private road with our backpacks and carry-ons. Very hot! No sooner did we walk into the Villa Del Palmar than the Ron and Eileen pulled up in a shuttle! We were soon checked into a nice two room suite and on the beach for a quick look around. We went to La Dolce for what I would consider as okay Italian food. We had a coffee at Cabo Roasting. Then we bused to Soriano again for supplies. It was evening by this time and an adventure for Ron and Eileen. They were real troopers as tired as they were. We did it the night before so we knew the lay of the land. They, however, were very concerned when people boarded the bus and had live chickens tucked under their arms with them. Back at the Villa, we had a celebratory drink and slept in well the next morning.

Sunday was purely a beach day. I started us off by preparing some fresh papaya and mango that we had bought the night before. Severine and Eileen had picked out pastries, and of course there was coffee. The beach was fun and we enjoyed many laughs, dips in the water, crashing waves, and an endless stream of vendors trying to sell us all kinds of crafts. Sunday evening we had decided on Mi Casa for dinner. It was a good choice. I had a red snapper Tikin Xic (with achiote paste steamed in banana leaf... Yucatán style). I shared it with Severine who did not care for her first ceviche, so I ate it. Ron and Eileen had tamales plates which we sampled a little bit from. They were also very good. We again searched for ice cream without success before the taxi ride back to the condo.

A couple of things I have left out. First we almost stayed in Dallas Fort Worth for an offer of $500 each, business class seats on the next flight out, and free lodging and meals! They were asking for volunteers to be bumped but ended up not needing us to volunteer right as we walked up to the counter. Damn! Second, we watched a hilarious Tim Robbins flick called Human Nature about a dysfunctional scientist and ape people the first night at the condo. It was silly and we laughed a lot. 

Monday started with the time share orientation presentation and a breakfast. Although I do not in anyway endorse timeshares, I will reveal that I bought a week at this presentation (I eventually GAVE it away. NEVER EVER EVER buy a timeshare. NEVER!). I will also tell you it is the worst financial decision you could possibly make. Never ever ever ever fall for one of these timeshares. It’s a financial nightmare and you can’t sell them. You have to pay companies to get you out of them. Trading to a different location is a hassle. The maintenance fees go up regularly every few years. And if you do trade out to go different places through one of the organizations like RCI or Interval, the fees are extremely high. Just don’t. Ever!

Anyway, a little beach time after I gave them $14,000 and a mile walk later in the scorching sun down the beach we did a glass bottom boat ride to Lands End. This is the famous rock arch you see in all the pictures where the Pacific ocean and Sea of Cortez meet. Now, these boat rides are supposed to be calm and relaxing. However, high seas and a stalling outboard motor on our particular boat had us close to death and crashing against the rocks several times. The arch was beautiful, and I took some stunning pictures as I simultaneously shit my pants because of our predicament! We actually decided to get off the boat at the marina at the last minute instead of taking it on up the beach and back towards our condo. We walked to Cabo Wabo Cantina for some margaritas and tacos. We later struck out on our search for ice cream for a third time! Back at the condo that evening we had some snacks and yogurt before going to the fiesta night at the condo main stage. Once there, the tequila and food were plentiful and the entertainment was very well done. Sleep and hangovers were easy to come by that evening!

Spending $14,000 got us a free breakfast with the timeshare sales person on Tuesday morning followed by 30 minutes massages each. The most expensive massages ever! We packed quickly that morning and sat at the pool until it was time to go. We settled up with our portion of fees for the four days with Ron and Eileen. I think he was a little emotional as we left in our shuttle. We had an excellent driver who was very smooth and very fast.

As I finish with some final thoughts on our flight to DFW, I’m still thinking of the great time that we had on this trip. The Ron and Eileen were not as adventurous as us but very fun people. We are often transformed by love and experiences together. I come back from Cabo with a lot less money, but a little bit richer soul. And I have gratitude for the grace of friends. Wading through the mysterious waters of life and love while traveling can be difficult, but you have to stick to it and be patient.